Hermès Kelly & Birkin – history, icons and collectors

Published in Unique Estates Life Spring Issue 2025

When she became one of the most awarded and beloved gymnasts at the Olympic Games in Paris last summer, the petite Black American Simone Biles received a priceless gift from her parents – a Hermès bag. “My parents bought me a Hermès bag – she boasted on Instagram. – Don’t be mad at me, be mad at yours!” Yet the medal-adorned Biles clearly didn’t rely only on her parents for such gifts – she liked the bag so much that in January this year she got herself a Hermès Birkin. This time she bought it personally during a trip to New York, even bringing her husband Jonathan Owens to the store for “emotional support.” Simone shared this romantic family investment once again on social media. Rapper Cardi B is also passionate about iconic Hermès bags. Although rap as music and philosophy may not seem aligned with elegant and luxurious items from the French brand, Cardi is a serious Birkin collector. Just last fall, she added three new pieces – all crocodile skin in autumn shades of crimson red, gray, and mustard yellow. Beyond those, her collection also includes rarer and highly sought-after models like the 30 cm Himalaya Hermès Birkin (priced above $300,000) and the Birkin Cargo at $240,000.

Today, Hermès stands as a global symbol of luxury and craftsmanship in accessories and fashion, but its handbags (especially Birkin and Kelly) have long marked the high social status of their owners. Founded in Paris in 1837 by Thierry Hermès as a workshop for harnesses, whips, and horse equipment, the brand initially served the Parisian aristocracy, even designing carriage interiors. As transportation evolved, Hermès adapted, offering leather bags and travel accessories. One of its earliest recognizable bags was the Haut à Courroies (HAC), launched in the early 1900s, designed to be both practical and durable – able to carry riding boots, attach to a saddle, and remain structured yet understated. These elements later inspired the Kelly and Birkin icons.

In 1935, Hermès introduced the Sac à Dépêches – a travel bag with no pretense beyond practicality. For twenty years it remained unnoticed, until 1956, when Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco was photographed shielding her baby bump with it. The photo went viral, orders surged, and Hermès renamed the bag Kelly in her honor. Known for its trapezoidal shape and iconic silhouette, it became a symbol of elegance.

In 1984, Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas happened to sit next to actress and singer Jane Birkin on a flight. She lamented not finding a stylish, practical travel bag, sketched her idea on an airplane paper bag, and inspired Dumas. Soon the Birkin bag was born – less formal than the Kelly, but equally exclusive. Since then, it has become one of the world’s most expensive handbags, with waiting lists spanning years. Beyond Kelly and Birkin, Hermès has introduced other signature bags: the Constance (1959), with its signature “H” clasp, favored by Jackie Kennedy; the relaxed Lindy (2007), with double side handles and a shoulder strap; the minimalist Picotin (2002), inspired by horse-feed bags; and the Evelyne (1978), with its perforated “H,” originally designed for stable grooms. Every Hermès bag is handmade by a single artisan, taking 18 to 40 hours of work. The brand uses only the finest materials, including exotic leathers like crocodile and ostrich. Production is deliberately limited, keeping demand exceptionally high. Bags can be customized in color, hardware, and leather, making each unique. Both Kelly and Birkin bags appreciate over time, often outperforming gold and stocks on resale markets.